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Thanks for the info and pix.
I have a 1210 on its way to me now and I think it will need re-capping too – apparently the power supply keeps overheating? I was thinking of just starting with the power caps first and seeing if that gets it working.
Did you draw-up any king of cap parts list, and do you have any other advice which might be useful? Did you need to do any recalibration and if so, what did you do? Do you have the service manual?
Many thanks and best regards,
Hi bob. No schematics available. Try the power caps first and go to the tantalum caps on the daughterboards later. Worked fine for me. Good luck!
Do you know if the capacitors you replaced on the 1210 were bulged up? I recently bought a 1210 and it keeps on blowing fuses and when I took a look at the board, none of the power capacitors look bulged/blown at all.
It was a tantalum. Can’t remember
HI Jacob! Thanks for the nice informations and pics shared! I endup reading at your webpage articles by googling about the TC1210. I have to recap the voice board as one of the tantalum cap burned but unfortunately I can not read the value of the original component and this unit as only one voice board so I can not compared them and no schematics available… Any chance you remember if all the capacitors you replaced on the voice boards were the same value? Do you remenber the values maybe?
I have to replace the transformer and will recap the power supply as well. Many thanks & best regards. Pierre
Hi Jacob, Do you have a Schematic for the TC1210? It looks like i have the same Problem. I didn’t use the TC a while, than i Power it on and the Fuse will blow. Can you Power on the TC without the Daughter Boards? I mean, if the Fuse stays on, than the condensers on the Daughter Board may be cause the Problem.
Hi! I hope that Pierre has already found out about the correct values. If anyone else is looking for it and ended up on this page: the smaller Tantal is 0.22µF/35V and the three bigger ones are 10µF/35V. You will find a small diagonal (?) line in the corner of the rectangle that is printed on the board for the position of the caps. This marks the position for the positive lead (+).
Thanks for the infos, Jacob! This is the only resource on the web that I found and the tip for replacing the tantalum caps got the unit working again 🙂 The tantal was creating a short for the +15-Supply (LM317) in my case. No positive Voltage; power transformer was heating up and the unit was blowing fuses.
Thanks Georg, good find!!!